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"Gait
Analysis" Clinic with Dr Deb Bennet
Would
you like to:
- Thoroughly understand the movement of the horse
-
Get the desired canter lead EVERY time from halt, walk, or
trot
- Improve co-ordination between the hand & the leg
- Understand what engagement of the hind-quarter truly means
- And much more?
Dr Deb
Bennett PhD combines her expertise on the bio-mechanics of
the horse with her understanding of the ‘Classical High School’.
She has trained horses to very high levels, her horses do
beautiful piaffe, passage and flying changes with ease. Her
physio-therapeutic riding allowed her horses to stay sound
and rideable into their late twenties and thirties.
The Gait
Analysis Classes will be an invaluable resource for thoroughly
understanding the movement of the horse and improving your
feel and timing of the aids.
North
Island and South Island clinics available.
Click
here to download PDF flyer on the clinic
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2008
Kelt Capital Horse Of The Year Show Delivers The Goods!
An exciting
array of international competitors, alongside New Zealand's
own top horse and rider combinations, converged upon the Kelt
Capital Horse Of The Year Show in Hastings, 5th to 9th March,
to compete for the prestigious titles at stake.
The show
has grown over the past 56 years to now become one of the
largest and most prestigious annual equestrian competitions
in the Southern Hemisphere, attracting over 1800 competitors
and 2500 horses who compete over five days, culminating in
each section awarding its own highly sought after "Horse
of the Year" titles. By 2009 the show will be rated as
a FEI 5* event - making it one of only SIX events in the world
with this ranking.
International
competition this year included teams from South Africa, Australia,
New Zealand and other European Nations. Most excitingly, the
Showjumping Horse of the Year Class - The Bell Tea Olympic
Cup - has grown to a prize pool of $500,000 which attracted
world reknown riders such as John Whitaker (England) to attend
and compete for the crown.
Despite
the tension caused from such a hugely competitive class and
prize money at stake, it was local NZ rider, 21 year old Katie
McVean and Dunstan Forest II, who made their way clear through
the second round of the Olympic Cup to claim the crown. Katie's
family and friends showed tears of joy as she cleared the
last fence to an errupting cheer from the crowd. Katie McVean
has long been among one of New Zealand's top young riders.
She has won the British Young Rider Championship and represented
New Zealand on numerous occasions. She gained the ride on
Dunstan Forest II just recently at Christmas time 2007 when
his previous rider Lisa Coupe went overseas.
Second
equal place in the cup went to four time winner of the class
Maurice Beatson on his horse My Gollywog, and Sue Thompson
on Air Hill the Rajah. The defending champion Oliver Edgecombe
couldnt quite repeat his 2007 performance and finished seventh
equal with both his talented horses - JJ Freelance and Vancouver.
In the
Dressage section, top honours went to Angela Fergusson from
Blenheim on her beautiful grey mare Monique III in the Hatton
Estate CDI W FEI Grand Prix freestyle. Angela put in a great
performance to beat Bill Noble on Vincent St James in second
place and Jody Hartstone with her stallion Landioso in 3rd.
In the
Eventing Challenge, recently returned competitor Mark Todd
and NZB Gandalf were the overall winners - a fitting outcome
for the new combination on track to their Olympic qualification.
Mark Twomey from Cambridge and Flaunt It were second, while
Donna Smith, (Waikato/USA) and her horse Stannage came third.
The 103km
Endurance competition was another hotly contested event with
25 competitors taking part, some from as far away as South
Africa. A galloping finish which saw Kirstin Deuss and her
Polish Arabian mare Pacifica cross the finish line first in
just under five hours. Second placed Teresa Birkett horse
unfortunately fell on the road during the final run in. Kirstin's
mare Pacifica also won the Best Conditioned award.
Further
results can be found by visiting: www.hoy.co.nz
The
2008 Kelt Capital HOY Show was bigger, better and had so many
highlights - even if you were at the show, make sure you see
the programmes to be shown on TV1 - Easter Sunday (March 23)
a 1 1/2 hour special on the entire show from 1pm - 2.35pm.
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RODEO,
RAIL & ROCKIE - TAKE THE TOUR OF A LIFETIME!
Motueka United Travel's exciting tour is waiting for you.
A magical
combination of Rocky Mountains by horse, foot and rail finishing
with the thrill of the Calgary Stampede "The Greatest Show
on Earth!".
 Trail
riding through the Rocky Mountains, whale watching in Vancouver,
wildlife spotting in Jasper, hiking by Lake Louise, riding
the Banff Gondola and experiencing the rush of the rodeo at
the Calgary Stampede.
Sound
like you? Motueka United Travel is offering you the chance
to experience this spectacular region on a fantastic 18-day
independent tour. Starting in Vancouver and ending in Calgary,
this package takes in the highlights of the Rocky Mountains.
With a
minimum of two nights at each stop, this tour gives you a
chance to fully appreciate the region. And with plenty of
included sightseeing and activities as well as free time,
you can make the most of your stay.
For more
information please download the flyer or itinerary:
- Calgary
Flyer (PDF 401kb)
- Calgary
Tour Itinerary (PDF 28kb)
Contact
Jess at Motueka United Travel for further details:
Phone: 03 528 1330
Phone: 0800 874 748
Email: Jessica@motuekaunitedtravel.co.nz
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VITAL
SIGNS OF THE HORSE
Most horse
owners will be aware of their horse's usual behaviour to recognise
when something is "not quite right", although sometimes
these changes can be very subtle. Knowing your horses 3 main
vital signs of temperature, pulse and respiration is an important
part of horse ownership because your horse is counting on
you to find and treat and problem or illness in the early
stages. Remember if you have any concern, you should contact
your vet or other health professional for advice!
TEMPERATURE
Normal body temperature of the horse is 37 - 38 degrees celsius.
If the temperature is higher than that, it may indicate an
infection. A healthy horse's temperature can vary by 3 degrees
depending on environmental factors, and of course horses do
tend to have higher temperatures in hot weather and during/after
exercise, excitement or stress. Fevers don't always indicate
a severe condition but if the temperature is constantly over
39 C or more following regular checks, you should call your
vet.
Digital
Thermometers are quick and easy to use
How to
take your horses temperature:
The most accurate way is to take the temperature rectally.
(Note - It pays to secure a string to the end of the thermometer
so that it doesn't accidently get lost!!) Most saddlerys and
chemists sell thermometers, the easiest and most accurate
to use are the digital thermometers that beep when they have
the temperature reading. If using an older style mercury thermometer,
remember to always shake down the mercury before taking the
horse's temperature. The horse should be tied up or held still
by an assistant. Lubricate the tip of the thermometer with
petroleum jelly, vaseline or saliva. Move the horse's tail
to the side and out of the way and insert the top of the thermometer
into the horse's rectum, angled slightly towards the ground.
Do not stand directly behind the horse, because some horses
don't like this - but most don't mind. For the most accurate
reading, leave the thermometer in position for at least 3
minutes, although many digital thermometers work in less than
1 minute. Remember to always clean the thermometer thoroughly
when finished, especially if used on an ill horse to prevent
the spreading of illness.
PULSE
The pulse of an adult horse at rest averages 30 to 40 beats
per minute (bpm). A pulse of 50 bpm or higher in an adult
horse at rest may mean the horse is in some form of physical
distress. The average pulse rates for young horses are as
follows: Foals (70 to 120 bpm), Yearlings (45 to 60 bpm),
2 year olds (40 to 50 bpm).
The horse's pulse rate will obviously increase if he is excited
or nervous, in pain, during/after exercise, or has a disease.
The higher the heart rate, the more severe the condition.
How to
take your horses pulse:
The horse's pulse can usually quite easily be found near the
front of the left jawbone. Under the jawbone, there is a major
artery that sticks out slightly. Using your forefinger (not
your thumb because you may feel your own pulse), press firmly
against the artery. Use a clock or counter to time a 15 second
period. Multiply the number of beats you counted by 4 to get
the total beats per minute. Another place to locate the horses
pulse is behind the left elbow, although pulse is usually
easier to locate in this spot using a stethoscope.
Using a
stethoscope, you can locate the horses pulse behind the left
elbow.
RESPIRATION
The average respiration rate of an adult horse at rest is
8 to 15 breaths per minute. Respiration rates will increases
with hot or humid weather, exercise, pain or fever. Any rapid
breathing at rest should receive veterinary attention and
keep in mind that the respiration rate should NEVER exceed
the pulse rate. A horse should also spend equal time inhaling
and exhaling.
The adult
horse at rest should breath 8 to 15 breaths per minute.
How to
measure the respiration:
Watch or feel your horse's ribcage/belly for one minute. Remember
to count one inhale and one exhale as one breath (not as two).
Each breath should be fairly slow. If you are having difficulty
seeing the ribcage move, try watching the horse's nostrils
or place your hand in front of the nostrils to feel the horse
exhale. An even better method is to place a stethoscope to
the horse's windpipe to listen to his breathing. This will
also give you strange sounds if the horse's windpipe is blocked
by mucous or if the he has allergies or heaves.
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10 SECOND SURVEY - Your Preferred Horse Breed?
Once upon
a time (and not that long ago!) many New Zealand riders wouldnt
have really known what their horses actual breeding was -
aside from perhaps the sires' name, and wouldn't have gone
out of their way to seek out specific bloodlines. Now things
are changing as people become more aware of particular attributes
different bloodlines can offer, not only for top level competitive
riders wanting superior trainability and scope, but also for
pleasure riders wishing for very quiet, sane temperaments
and the like.
We have
compiled a list of some of the most common horse breeds in
New Zealand, and want to know what your favourite breed is
- and why!
Thanks
for sharing your thoughts! Results will be calculated and
shown here next month. Stay tuned :-)
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FREE
JUMPING - How to set it up and why it can be a great exercise
for your horse, whether young and green or older and more
experienced!
Free-jumping
your horse in a jumping lane is a great exercise for your
horse, while also being quite useful for you as the trainer.
Free-jumping allows you to assess a young horses' natural
attitude and ability for jumping while teaching them self-confidence,
balance and how to negotiate obstacles, while also being a
valuable exercise for older horses especially those who have
some problems like stumbling or putting in extra strides.
Young, green horses can be free-jumped before they are broken
in, although of course you must remember that jumping is quite
an effort for them when they are not fit and muscled, so short
sessions over low jumps offer best results making jumping
becoming a fun, positive exercise. Because the jumps are initially
only set at a low height and are in a straight line, occasional
free-jumping on a good surface shouldn't put anymore strain
on a young horses tendons and joints than the sudden turns
and stops they do in the paddock of their own accord!
It must always be remembered that you can teach your horse
alot and assess their basic style over even a small fence
and it is not advisable to see "how high" your young
horse can jump in the early stages - quickly putting the jumps
up higher and higher might sound impressive to some but will
not make a better jumper out of your horse in the long term
and may instead result in the beginning of some problems like
repeatedly refusing and losing confidence.
Famous stallion "Cor De Le Bryere"
freejumping with terrific style. Many breed associations include
free-jumping as part of their stallion and mare classifications.
When
free-jumping you need to keep in mind the ideal shape of a
horse jumping. The horse should lower his head and lengthen
his neck as he approaches the fence, take off correctly and
round his back nicely with his knees up, with the withers
being the highest point of the horse when over the top of
the jump (not the head!). Some horses will have better natural
style than others who need to learn to lift their legs and
bascule more etc, and some horses are bolder and obviously
enjoy jumping, while others may need to build up more confidence
in their own abilities. With jumping ability being one of
the most highly inheritable traits in horse breeding, strong
jumping bloodlines will more often than not show through during
free-jumping sessions. Free-jumping any horse can help you
determine where your horses' natural tendancies lie.
| To
setup a free-jumping lane you will need a good number
of poles and jump stands (or barrels) to form the edges
of the lane, as well as to form the actual jumps. Cavaletti
can also be useful. The lane is easiest to create if you
have an existing arena wall (of adequate height) or a
suitable safe fenceline to use as the outer side of the
lane, meaning you only need to build one side of the lane.
Ideally the lane will form a complete oval shape so the
horse can move around the laneway uninterrupted, however
if you have smaller area or less equipment available,
one long laneway with an entry and exit point at each
end can be made, catching the horse at the end and leading
them back to the start point. |
Above: Example of free-jumping lane setup
with poles and barrels within an exisiting fenced arena
or paddock. Assistants stand in the middle to encourage
the horse to keep moving or to slow down. |
If using
an arena it can also be a good idea to round off the corners
using poles etc to prevent the horse facing into the corners
which may cause them to stop or turn around.
For your
horses' protection it is a good idea to use bell-boots and
brushing boots on the legs. A halter and leadrope will be
needed. Some people like to saddle and bridle the horse (removing
the stirrups and reins, and using a breastplate is a good
idea) so the horse becomes accustomed to the feel of the gear
while jumping.
If including
multiple jumps make sure you measure the distances accurately
between your jumps correctly otherwise the horse may have
trouble making the distance to each jump, constantly hit their
legs and might start to refuse or rush through the jumps if
they become worried. The standard distances initially might
not be suitable for a young horse in the early stages of training
who is less balanced and rhythmical (or for example a pony
with a smaller stride) so ensure you adjust your distances
to make it best for your horse. The distance between any two
obstacles is measured from the back of the first obstacle
to the front of the next. As your horse progresses in their
training they will learn how to adjust their stride to make
almost any distance between jumps work out well. Teaching
your more advanced jumping horse to be clever on their own
accord with free-jumping can be very helpful when it comes
to jumping under saddle.
Very simple free-jumping exercise setup in
an indoor arena.
Once you
have a free-jumping lane setup and your horse all ready, you
will need one or two assistants with lunge whips who can judge
the horses' pace and help you keep him moving around the laneway.
A good trot and calm yet forward-going canter are your aim
- you don't want the horse to become hurried, unbalanced and
fast, most especially when they are learning as they will
only become worried about jumping and will learn to jump flat
rather than develop a proper rounded bascule over the fences.
If the horse has never been free-jumped before, it is a good
idea to introduce them to the whole idea by initially leading
them through the free-jump lane several times, with your jumps
set as simple poles on the ground for a start. The horse should
then be set free within the lane with each assistant standing
in the middle of your oval and encouraging the horse to trot
or canter calmly around the lane over the poles at an even
pace. This needs to be acheived before jumps are introduced.
While free-jumping each assistant should remain quiet and
still so the horse can concentrate and focus, and only send
the horse on from behind with a flick of the whip if the horse
loses momentum, while also being ready to help slow and settle
the horse if he becomes too fast. The idea is for the assistants
to keep the horse moving with good rhythm and plenty of forward
impulsion without distracting the horse or making sudden moves
that drive them forward at the last minute before the jump.
If the horse is already familiar with voice commands (walk,
trot, canter and stand) it can be very useful to use these
as well. As soon as the horse starts to relax around the lane
or has jumped down the lane nicely let them stop and reward
them with plenty of praise and time to catch their breath
and think about their work before doing some more. After a
few free-jumping sessions most horses will start to enjoy
the exercise and probably wont need much encouragement at
all from your assistants to keep moving forward around the
lane.
Horse free-jumping
in a built up laneway using poles and arena fenceline as boundaries.
Following
a calm canter around the lane over poles, you can start to
build the poles up into small jumps. Small cross-bars with
the centre approx 50cms high are a nice introductory jump
as they encourage the horse to round up over the centre of
the jump. Always use ground lines as they also make the jump
easier for the young horse to judge the correct take-off point.
Raise the last fence in the lane first (so the horse has to
negotiate the poles on the ground beforehand), then later
raise the second to last fence as well.
As with
any schooling, always judge your horses' temperament and efforts
before asking further demands of them. If the horse is nervous
let them continue going over poles on the ground until they
become more confident to negotiate one small jump. If the
horse is very excited and rushing through the jumps or poles
too quickly use your voice to keep them calm and give them
longer breaks inbetween each round so they can become relaxed
and settled again. Don't be too despondant if your young horse
seems to lack courage or ability. Often when young horse have
gained more confidence and built up muscle and strength they
can become quite successful jumpers because they have been
given the time and training to show their real ability and
potential.
Horse free-jumping
in a built up laneway using poles and arena fenceline as boundaries.
On your
first day of free-jumping, just two or three clean, calm,
rhythmical runs down a lane of poles with one or two small
jumps would be a very good positive note to end on. The horse
will finish with confidence without becoming too tired or
hurting themselves and will remember what to do next time
you bring them to the lane.
Once you
have taught your horse to free-jump in this calm, relaxed
manner you will be able to slowly raise the jumps, introduce
small spreads and later even add different walls and fillers
to your jumping lane. The distances between the jumps should
be able to be set at the accepted standard once your horse
has developed a good rhythm and has their basic jumping technique
more established. Bear in mind that even for a fit, advanced
horse, each average showjumping competition class will only
have around 15 jumping efforts in it, so several rounds of
your jumping lane is a strenuous workout requiring quite alot
of effort. Also remember that if you have setup your freejump
lane as an on-going circle to change the rein regularly to
avoid your horse becoming stiff on one side.
For older
horses who have made a habit of refusing jumps, rushing after
jumps or adding in short extra strides between jumps, free-jumping
can help them to gain their self-confidence back and develop
better stride and technique. Refusals are not an option because
with walls each side and you and your assistants behind there
is nowhere else to go! Placing a pole on the ground at approx
6.5 metres either side of your jumps can help your horse develop
a better canter stride between the jumps while also encouraging
them to slow down if rushing as they must sight the pole and
collect themselves on landing, transfer their weight into
the hindquarters and slow down to negotiate the added pole.
Regular
free-jumping provides variety to your horses schooling regime
and is used by many trainers and breed associations around
the world who recognise its worth. Because the horses must
learn to think for themselves, when it comes to jumping under
saddle with a rider the horse has the skills to be able to
help the rider in more difficult situations. A rider introducing
a young horse to jumps for the first time, after it has already
been free-jumped, will be able to feel the balance and bascule
of the horse already quite well developed compared to riding
a youngster who is still learning how to judge and negotiate
a fence, let alone deal with the added weight of a rider on
their back.
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WORMS
AND HORSES - This Article Not For The Squeamish!
Worms....
no, we're not talking about the regular earthworm
that inhabits the garden, but the internal parasites which
our horses host. Most horses that are carrying large worm
burdens will show signs such as a poor, dull coat, weight
loss or inability to gain weight and, in more severe circumstances
if left untreated, stomach upsets, illness and serious colic.
Correct and regular worming of your horse will never completely
remove all worms or parasites, but will help to control them
from potentially harming your horse. Here we look at some
of the different major internal parasites of horses, see what
effect they can have, and discover which active ingredients
found in common wormers will work best.
Redworms
These are split into two types, Large Redworms and Small Redworms.
Large Redworms (Strongyle) are now relatively uncommon thanks
to modern wormers which effectively control them, however,
left untreated, the Large Redworm larvae can multiply and
block the arteries into the gut which can cause life threatening
colic.
Small Redworms (Cyathostomes) are one of the most common horse
parasites and can remain seemingly dormant in the the gut
by enclosing themselves in a protective membrane for months,
or even years, before all suddenly emerging at the same time,
causing severe illness that can include diarrhoea, colic and
weight loss. If these worms are not prevented from reaching
this encysted state, successful treatment of them becomes
much harder, making regular worming treatment (with the right
active ingredient) the best solution.
Threadworm
The presence of threadworms can be seen by coat dullness and
horses that dont hold their weight. Foals are very susceptible
to threadworms which can be passed to them via the mares milk
and decrease the natural weight gain of the foal. By worming
the mare while she is pregnant this can be prevented.
Large
Roundworm
Large roundworms can grow up to 40 centimetres long! They
are mostly found in young horses up to a year old and can
migrate to the lungs and liver sometimes causing respiratory
disease in foals. If lots of large roundworms become present
in the small intestine of the foal, they can also cause a
partial or complete blockage, so it is important to treat
your youngstock for these.
Tapeworm
There are several species of tapeworm which can infect horses,
and they can cause serious colic when present in large numbers.
These worms are ingested by the horse as small mites in pasture
which contain the developing tapeworm.
Lungworm
Not so common in horses, but are a common worm in donkeys
(although horses can become infected with lungworm if grazed
with donkeys). They live in the animals airways.
Pinworms
Pinworms glue their eggs to the skin underneath the horses
tail which causes discomfort and makes the horse want to rub
its hindquarters and tail, so although these worms are not
a serious health threat, they are still best avoided.
Bots
The bot fly is well known to most horse owners, and their
annoyance to horses during summer months is common around
New Zealand. These big dozy flies lay small yellow eggs usually
around the horses legs, stomach and flank areas. They enter
the horses mouth when they rub their face or scratch on these
parts, before turning into small maggots inside the stomach,
staying in place until they are passed out in the dung the
next spring (and the cycle starts all over again). Worming
treatment for bots is best timed in the autumn after all of
the adult flies have died.
There
are a number of worming (or drench) treatments available for
sale, however when purchasing you need to bear in mind the
active ingredients to ensure that you are worming your horses
for the different types of worms, as not all wormers available
cover all worm types.
Ivermectin
This is good overall wormer ingredient which treats most roundworms
and bots. Does not have any effect against tapeworms or small
encysted redworms.
Fenbendazole
Effective against small redworms, although there is resistance
developing to this wormer in some parts of the world (such
as the UK). Does not have any effect against tapeworms or
bots.
Pyrantel
Effective againsts tapeworms, although it does not kill larval
worms of most species, and has no effect against small encysted
redworms or bots.
Moxidectin
This is the longest lasting wormer currently available and
kills around 80% of developing encysted redworms in one dose.
It is effective against most roundworms as well as bots, but
has no effect on tapeworms.
Praziquantel
This is specifically for tapeworm and is suggested to be used
once or twice yearly for tapeworm treatment, best times are
autumn and spring.
To ensure
you are protecting your horse from worms most effectively,
your worming programme needs to include a combination of the
above mentioned ingredients at the most appropriate time of
year. It is important to start young foals on a regular worming
programme early in their life as they are very susceptible
to worms and long term damage at this age is best avoided.
It is wise to worm all of your horses at the same time with
the same wormer. Good management of your horse pasture, such
as picking up dung, cross grazing with other animals, and
allowing the paddocks time to rest, all help towards better
worm control.
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TRAINING
TIPS - SERPENTINES
 The
serpentine is a very useful flatwork exercise for dressage
and jumping horses alike, and is a simple yet beneficial exercise
for any level of horse and rider. Riding serpentines encourages
your horse to soften and flex to the inside leg, while also
encouraging the rider to balance and use their weight correctly
while aiming to acheive the correct bend and rhythm through
each turn. Because of the constant change of rein, this is
a very good exercise to help riders learn to quickly adjust
their hands and legs to becoming the new inside or outside
and vice versa.
Ideally
when riding serpentines, you are aiming to ride smooth, evenly
sized loops through the arena with the path between each half
circle loop being straight. Consistent rhythm and impulsion
should be maintained.
The whole
length of the arena is generally used, although they can be
ridden either full or half the width of the arena which varies
the exercise or difficulty. A serpentine with an even number
of loops (eg 2 or 4 loops) will result in changing the rein
once you reach the other end of the arena, while a serpentine
with an odd number of loops (eg 1 or 3) will result in completing
the serpentine on the same rein as you started.
Depending
on the number of loops you are aiming for, they can be ridden
in walk, rising or sitting trot, and require the rider to
balance and focus on the turn ahead while preparing for the
change of rein (if rising to the trot, remember to change
your diagonal!).
If you
are finding the loops coming upon you too quickly before you
have found your balance, bend and rhythm, try incorporating
a fu ll
circle into each loop before continuing on through the serpentine
to the next loop - this gives both horse and rider more time
to achieve the goals of correct bend and rhythm. Concentrate
on always riding a well shaped circle and/or loop.
Serpentines
are a great suppling exercise and keep the horse concentrating
more compared to just always riding in circles. Start off
at the walk and just riding serpentines with few loops, then
later increase to trot and to more loops (or half width ones)
as you become more proficient. As you progress, transistions
such as halts (eg everytime you reach the centre line) can
also be incorporated through the serpentine which adds to
the difficulty and will encourage you to focus on straightness.
A horse
and rider combination that can maintain a lovely soft bend
and rhythm throughout a serpentine shows a good foundation
for the basics of schooling that will help in any competitive
discipline.
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BOOK
REVIEW
"Right From The Start" by Michael Schaffer
Reviewed by SHNZ
"When
you see a horse under saddle that looks light, elegant and
graceful - as though he's having the best time of his life,
that horse is moving in true balance. Going in true
balance makes carrying a rider easier and more enjoyable,
so he does it with ease, grace and a pleasant attitude."
Michael
Schaffer's book "Right From The Start" shares his
knowledge of the fundamentals, as well as his unique way of
starting horses, whether they are young and untrained, or
older and needing a new reschooling regime. With work from
the ground, as well as lessons on the horse, he reveals his
training process. Using understandable aids, he teaches the
horse to soften and move into the rider's hand. And by controlling
the horses direction and angle, he teaches him to bend, control
his speed, and balance his movement.
As well
as plentiful exercise to help develop the horse through the
training stages, focus is also made on the rider's position
with exercises to help common problem areas such as contact
and straightness in the saddle.
This book
contains lovely colour photographs and diagrams to enhance
the text and is written in a very readable, straight forward
style.
Michael
Schaffer is based in Eastern Maryland, USA, where he teaches
and rides on a daily basis, having trained horses and riders
right through the FEI levels. He is well known for his skill
at making difficult horses easier and transforming average
horses into "something special".
"Right
From The Start" is a great book for riders from all disciplines
who wish to acheive more harmony, balance and partnership
with their horse.
Please
note: This Product or Book review was undertaken by independant
testers who are not in any way associated with the product.
This reveiw represents the authors opinions only.
**Have
you read a book or purchased a product that you are really
pleased with and would like to recommend to our readers? Click
here to email
us your own review now! (Note: Reviews will be used
at the discretion of SHNZ.)
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Disclaimer:
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Sport
Horses New Zealand .com
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Free-jumping
Your Horse - We look at how to setup a free jumping lane
and why it can be a good exercise for young horses or horses
with jumping problems. 
